Knowledge
Estate jewelry guide
The periods, the questions we hear most, and how to value, care for and sell fine estate jewelry.
What is estate jewelry?
Estate jewelry is any previously owned jewelry, whatever its age. Antique usually describes pieces at least 100 years old, and vintage pieces from roughly the last century. Every piece at Platinum 1911 is acquired from fine estates.
How do you value antique jewelry?
Value comes from the materials (metal, and the type, size and quality of each gemstone), the craftsmanship, any maker's marks or signature, the period, the condition and current demand. A written appraisal documents all of this, and the purpose matters: an insurance replacement value is different from a fair market or estate value.
What is the Victorian jewelry period?
Named for Queen Victoria's reign (1837 to 1901). Early pieces favor romantic motifs such as hearts, hands, serpents and flowers in gold; the middle years brought mourning jewelry in jet and black enamel; late Victorian jewelry turned to diamonds, stars and crescents, often set in silver over gold.
What is Arts and Crafts jewelry?
A reaction against machine-made jewelry, from about 1890 to 1915: hand-hammered silver and gold, cabochon stones such as moonstone and turquoise, and enamel, valued for the hand of the maker over the size of the stones.
What is Art Nouveau jewelry?
From about 1890 to 1910, flowing lines drawn from nature: women with streaming hair, dragonflies, orchids and peacocks, often in enamel (including translucent plique-a-jour), horn and opal.
What is Edwardian jewelry?
The age of platinum, from 1901 to about 1915: lace-like openwork, garlands, bows and fine milgrain edges, with diamonds and pearls in white-on-white designs.
What is the Art Deco jewelry period?
From about 1920 to 1935, geometry and contrast: platinum set with old European and early modern cut diamonds, calibre-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds, filigree and bold symmetry. The style takes its name from the 1925 Paris exposition of decorative arts.
Read: the characteristics of Art Deco jewelry
What is Retro jewelry?
From about 1935 to 1950. With platinum reserved for the war effort, jewelers turned to rose and yellow gold in big, sculptural forms: scrolls, bows, tank bracelets and large colored stones.
What is mid-century and modern jewelry?
The 1950s brought textured gold, clusters and cocktail rings; the 1960s and 1970s went organic and modernist, with nugget and bark-finished gold, bold colored gemstones and the abstract forms of studio jewelers.
Shop 1950s and mid-century jewelry
How should estate jewelry be cleaned?
Old settings, enamel, pearls and antique cuts need gentle care: a soft brush and mild soapy water for most diamond and gold pieces, and no ultrasonic or steam cleaning for pearls, opals, emeralds, enamel or fragile settings. When in doubt, ask us before you clean.
How do you sell a luxury watch or jewelry collection?
We buy jewelry, diamonds, gemstones, watches, coins and precious metals. Start with a free, no-obligation evaluation; you can sell for a check, cash or trade.
Appraisals and estate liquidation
We appraise and purchase jewelry from estates, and welcome private consultations at our Scottsdale showroom by appointment.